Portugal and Spain share a land border of some 750 miles. Heavily fortified, often a field of battle for centuries — the two nations peered at each other through castle walls. This border between Spain and Portugal is one of the oldest borders/boundaries in Europe, mostly unchanged since 1297 and the Treaty of Alcanizes. For centuries there were controlled crossing points, patrols, and legendary smugglers and contrabandistas.
Then two things happened - The Schengen Agreement signed on June 14, 1985 led many European countries towards the opening of their national borders. And then the Euro common currency was launched on 1 January 1999, and banknotes were issued in 2002.
All of sudden the border was open, and the currency was the same. The frontier lands between Portugal and Spain are called "A Raia" — the stripe.
But with the Schengen Zone and the Euro, things changed. Now Portuguese could drive a few minutes and shop, dine and explore. Spaniards could too — and all without changing money or showing a passport. Suddenly ancient enemies became neighbors.
The Raia, which had been remote and distant, now became bustling. Stop in at Barrancos a Portuguese town that is home to about 1,800 people. Set more than 20 miles from any other town, Barrancos is surrounded by Spain on three sides. The town is a market town — it is a mini-United Nations, with a busy main street flanked with shops and eateries. The people speak both Portuguese and Spanish to each other-everyone gets along. The local cured ham of Barrancos has its own denomination of origin (PDO), and it is not unlike Spanish pata negra. In fact, many local eateries will offer a plate of the region’s cured ham, called presunto, with a jar of red wine.
Up the border a way in Estremoz, the town is quite busy every Saturday morning for the local market. More than half of the shoppers, and a few of the sellers, are from Spain. They stroll the antiques and collectibles market, buy fresh flowers, fruit and cheese in the food service. They sit at the cafes and feast on bifanas and beer.
Just to the East at Elvas - the mighty walled city right on the border, Spaniards fill local eateries, especially on weekends — and stroll the walls built to keep their ancestors out. They are the biggest source of visitors to the city forts — and a new hotel has opened to welcome them — the Vila Galé Collection Elvas.
It is one of many new hotels that have opened, or are in the stages of opening along the Raia. New hotels set in monuments are planned for Moura, Vila viçosa, Borba and Estremoz - to name a few. And the new luxe Hotel Convento D’Alter is open in the royal horse farm at Alter do Chao. In Estremoz, the new Casa da Gadanha hotel has all the touches of a boutique inn, situated in the heart of the "white city.” And there are winery hotels too, like the chic Herdade da Rocha in Flor da Rosa, and even a new glamping in Veiros called Glamping Skies.
But, the growth does not stop there — new tourism projects are many — including the wonderful new sandy river beach at Azenhas d'El Rei in Alandroal. Set facing Spain, and with boats and cars of Spaniards arriving to enjoy the golden sand, the beach project has been a huge success. With dock, accessibility, and a very nice restaurant and cafés, they easily won a Blue flag — with the clean waters of the River Guadiana washing it — the official border between Spain and Portugal. A bit north, the historic military complex of Juromenha is being conserved, with ruins ranging from the 17th century to the time of the Arabs - the fort faces Spain, and will be a major attraction for hikers and history buffs.
As for cuisine, a host of new eateries have sprung up — and some are quite high end. Set in the wine country north of the Great Alqueva Lake, the Herdade do Esporão Restaurant, has a Michelin Star. Managed by chef Carlos Teixeira, the restaurant offers a seasonal cuisine based on love for local food, respect for nature and zero waste. And, to the North, Estremoz has emerged as a major food destination, with some of the most innovative places from winery eateries to chef driven restaurants serving up world class dining.
And that’s just on the Portuguese side — facing Elvas, the bustling capital of the Estremadura Region, Badajoz, is full of restaurants, shops, sites and day trippers. The city has historic downtown streets, and many Portuguese come to its shops. Not far away is a symbol of what the Raia has become. The town of Olivença was Portuguese since the 13th century — but fell to French forces in 1801. Despite international treaties after the Peninsular War making Olivença Portuguese territory, the Spanish refused to cede it back. It was a huge political issue in the 19th century — and a thorn in the side of the two neighbors. The cause of Olivença was a political hotcake. The town has a Spanish Plaza Mayor, with a castle nearby with the Portuguese Coat of Arms.
But today, that tension has gone, a place where the Portuguese and Spanish cultures merge, so much so that the town has curious aspects like streets have a double nomenclature and many of inhabitants speak the dialect named 'Oliventino Portuguese’.
Today inhabitants of Olivença can also get Portuguese nationality, which allows them to be citizens with full rights of both nations.
Spain and Portugal are united, once separated, by the Ajuda bridge — built in the reign of King Manuel I of Portugal in 1510. Then, in 1709, in the War of the Spanish Succession, the Spanish blew up the bridge, partially destroying it. In 2000, a new bridge was opened, a short distance downstream from the old one, built and financed by the Portuguese government — reuniting Olivença and Portugal.
Up river, another bridge celebration of the new Raia. Just 6 meters long, this wooden pedestrian bridge connects the town of La Codosera (Spain) to the village of Esperança (Portugal) and is considered the smallest international bridge in the world. Built in 2008 with the help of EU funds, this small wooden bridge spans the Abrilongo stream that is the border between Portugal and Spain.
And just like that, two peoples-separated for centuries by war and distrust have discovered that they have a lot more in common than they thought — and a new era of mutual growth and intercultural ties is transforming the Raia.
